This free percent off calculator shows you the real sale price on any deal in seconds. Enter an original price and a discount as a percentage or a fixed amount, and it instantly works out what you pay and how much you save. You can stack a second discount to see the true combined saving, add sales tax for the final price, and switch to any currency. No signup required.
Applied after discounts. Leave at 0 if there is no tax.
Add an original price and a discount to instantly see the sale price, how much you save, and the true combined percentage off.
Great deals only help if you know where your money goes. Auritrack tracks your spending and savings automatically so you can see the impact of every purchase.
Try Auritrack FreeType the pre-discount price shown on the tag or listing. Pick your currency from the selector so every figure formats correctly.
Toggle the discount type. Use "Percent off" for a rate like 25% and "Amount off" for a fixed reduction such as $15 off.
Tap "Add another discount" to apply a second percentage on top. It is applied to the already-discounted price, which is how real stacked coupons work.
Enter your sales tax rate if you want the after-tax total. Tax is calculated on the discounted price, not the original.
Instantly see what you pay, how much you save, the true combined discount percentage, and the final price with tax.
A percentage discount is a fraction of the original price removed from the total. To calculate it by hand, multiply the price by the discount rate to get the amount off, then subtract that from the price. A 30% discount on a $120 jacket is 0.30 × 120 = $36 off, so you pay $84. There is an even faster shortcut: multiply the price by the portion you still pay. Since 100% − 30% = 70%, you multiply 120 × 0.70 = $84 directly. This one-step method avoids a second calculation and is exactly what the calculator above uses under the hood.
Sale price = Original × (100 − Discount%) / 100
This is the single most common discount mistake. When a store advertises “an extra 20% off already-reduced prices,” the two percentages do not add together. Each discount applies to the price that is left after the previous one. Take 50% off a $100 item and you are at $50. The extra 20% comes off that $50, not the original $100, so it only removes $10, leaving $40. You saved $60 in total, which is a genuine 60% discount, not 70%. Stacked percentages always compound multiplicatively, and the result is always smaller than the naive sum.
The gap widens with bigger numbers. A 40% discount stacked with another 40% sounds like 80% off, but it is really 1 − (0.60 × 0.60) = 64% off. Knowing this stops you from overestimating a deal in your head at the checkout. When you add a second discount in the calculator above, it spells out the true combined percentage for you so there is no guesswork. If you are splitting a discounted bill with friends, our bill splitter divides the final total evenly or by custom shares.
Sometimes you see the sale price and the discount percentage but want to know the original reference price. Working backward is straightforward: divide the sale price by the portion you paid. If a pair of shoes costs $63 after a 30% discount, you paid 70% of the original, so the original was 63 ÷ 0.70 = $90. The general formula is original = sale price ÷ ((100 − discount%) / 100). This reverse check is handy for verifying a retailer’s claimed “was” price, comparing second-hand listings, or reconstructing a receipt where only the final amount is printed.
Original = Sale price ÷ (100 − Discount%) / 100
The standard rule at almost every register is: discount first, then tax. Sales tax is charged on the amount you actually pay, so a discount lowers the taxable base. Consider a $200 item at 25% off in a region with 8% sales tax. The discount brings it to $150, and 8% tax on $150 is $12, for a final total of $162. If tax were charged on the full $200 first, you would pay $16 in tax instead, so the order genuinely matters to your wallet. A few jurisdictions treat manufacturer coupons differently from store markdowns for tax purposes, but the discount-then-tax sequence is the norm and the one this calculator follows. When you are shopping across borders, our currency converter helps you compare a foreign sale price against your home currency before you buy.
A big discount percentage is only meaningful if the original price is real. A common retail tactic is to inflate the “original” or “was” price so that a modest markdown looks dramatic. An item permanently listed at $200 and “always” on sale for $100 was never really a $200 product. The honest way to judge a deal is to ignore the headline percentage and compare the final price against what the same item costs elsewhere and what you would happily pay for it. Watch for a few warning signs: prices that jump up just before a big sale event, countdown timers and “only 2 left” banners designed to rush you, and reference prices that no competitor actually charges.
The reverse-price method above is your best defence. If a retailer claims 70% off with a $30 sale price, that implies an original of $100. Check whether that item genuinely sells for $100 anywhere else. Discounts feel good because saving money is satisfying, but a purchase you did not need is not a saving at all, no matter the percentage. Giving every discretionary buy a moment of thought, and tracking how these purchases add up over a month with a budget planner, keeps sales from quietly eroding your finances.
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Disclaimer: This tool is provided for informational and educational purposes only. It does not constitute financial, tax, investment, or legal advice. Results are estimates based on the inputs you provide and may not reflect actual financial outcomes. Always consult a qualified financial professional before making financial decisions.
